Verdier-Logel Cotes du Forez 'Volcanique' 2023

Grape Varietal: Gamay (Saint-Romain Clone)

Country: France

Region: Côtes du Forez, Upper Loire

The Wine: Domaine Verdier-Logel is the leading estate of the Côtes du Forez, a small, obscure appellation tucked into the volcanic foothills of the Massif Central, between the Loire and Allier rivers, roughly 100 kilometers from Lyon and firmly in the mountains. The project belongs to husband-and-wife team Jacky Logel and Odile Verdier, who left Mulhouse, bought a few hectares of vines, and made their first vintage in 1992 — building a certified organic and biodynamic domaine that now covers 17 hectares at 400 to 600 meters elevation. The appellation permits only Gamay, and Verdier-Logel separates their vineyards by soil type: Volcanique comes from parcels on volcanic basalt, Cuvée des Gourmets from granite.

For Volcanique, two-thirds of the bunches are fermented whole-cluster in the semi-carbonic style — Jacky's so-called "sandwich" method — with a maceration of around 11 days, then matured in tank through the following spring and bottled. The local Gamay Saint-Romain clone produces smaller berries than in Beaujolais, with a peppier, more mineral character.

The 2023 Volcanique is a structured, earthy Gamay with more grip and depth than its granite-soil counterpart. It opens with aromas of crushed dark cherry, black pepper, mineral earth, and a lift of menthol and smoke. On the palate it is medium-to-full-bodied for Gamay, with firm tannins, vivid acidity, and a long, mineral-edged finish of dark fruit, licorice, and volcanic stone — best served slightly cool.

Pairing: Rabbit braised with herbs and white wine, a platter of charcuterie and Roquefort cheese, or a cold-weather dinner of lentils with smoked sausage.