2020 Claus Preisinger Kieselstein Zweigelt

Grape Varietal: Zweigelt

Country: Austria

Region: Burgenland, Neusiedlersee

The Wine: Claus Preisinger is a biodynamic winemaker based in Gols on the north shore of Lake Neusiedl, farming roughly 17 hectares across dozens of parcels under Respekt-Biodyn certification — one of the stricter biodynamic standards in Austria. His philosophy is one of reduction: indigenous yeast fermentations, no fining, no filtration, minimal to zero sulfur, and a preference for amphora over oak that keeps his wines taut and varietal rather than worked. Kieselstein — meaning "pebble" or "gravel stone" — is his entry-point Zweigelt, named for the gravelly soils of the Neusiedlersee flatlands, and vinified to drink with minimum ceremony.

Kieselstein 2020 is an easy, direct, and genuinely satisfying expression of Zweigelt at its most unencumbered. It opens with aromas of fresh sour cherry, pomegranate, and a thread of elderflower, with a faint earthy, peppery lift underneath. On the palate, it is light-footed and juicy, with bright acidity, low tannin, and a clean, slightly mineral finish — the kind of red that benefits from twenty minutes in the fridge and a table that isn't taking itself too seriously.

Pairing: A platter of Liptauer spread on dark rye bread, cold sliced Tafelspitz with horseradish cream, grilled eggplant with herbs and olive oil, or a backyard dinner where someone's still arguing about whether to open another bottle.